Sunday, December 30, 2012

KP 5: The end!



“It’s not the destination so much as the journey!”
We started on our way back along the route that leads to the KukkeSubramanya temple. This is a 14km descend- the first 9 kms through vast grasslands and the last 5 kms through thick forests. The “only man’s land” in between these two stretches was called Bhattramane, where we had decided to halt for lunch.
En route we stopped at a place sheltered with trees where the wind would not blow away our breakfast. We had a good fill of bread cheese milk and a custom-made special energy drink, which was prepared by mixing glucose and milk in a jar, filled with some jam!

From here we started on our long journey towards Bhattramane. We had to go around the Siddha Parvata and the SeshaParvatha in order to reach Bhattramane.
From the place where we were standing then, we could see the ochre trail snaking in the greenery of the mountain slopes till Bhattramane. The trail looked as if it went through level ground… It was only after we started that we realized that it is a steep descent. The wind pushing us from behind was making the descent more difficult. Four of us climbed the SeshaParvatha peak to get our snaps clicked… But the wind was trying to blow us over the edge. We had to sit down holding each other and also the grass around to stop ourselves from getting a cost-free and equipment-free experience of skydiving!

From here then as we descended the mountain slopes the force of the wind gradually dampened and the sun started burning our backs. The entire stretch of about 5 kms till Kallu Mantapa is dusty, dry and devoid of any shade. Kallu Mantapa is like an oasis in the vast dry desert along the route to Subramanya from Kumara Parvata. We halted to refill our water bottles at the water source here and change into sun protection gear.In the next hour we reached Bhattramane, all exhausted, dirty and sweaty.

We had not washed ourselves properly since we left Mangalore. Neither had we seen our own disheveled reflection nor had we found a decent place to answer nature’s calls!We got all of that at Bhattramane! The simple lunch of rasam, rice, idlis and butter milk felt so palatial and sumptuous! After a long tiring journey you can only be grateful to the man who built this house. The people at Bhattramanemust needto trek at least every week to get food supplies from the town! Rejuvenated, we proceeded to cover the last few kilometers through the forests to Subramanya after bidding farewell to the folks from Bangalore.(They had planned to halt there for the night.)

The trek trail ends very close to the KukkeSubramanya Temple. On successful completion of our trek, we entered a café and hogged on food as if we had not eaten for days together! We felt a sense of accomplishment. We were back after conquering the Kumara Parvata! We had looked Mother Nature in face as she unleashed her fury. We had amazing memories to share, to look back and smile upon, to cherish for a lifetime!
The aftermath of the trek was an inability to walk normally for a couple of days after the trek! As our friend, Achalesh, rightly mentioned in a mail post the trek:
Do you see any one limping, dragging their feet, walking like a robot in FC. Ah! then that fella might be one of us, who trekked KP over the weekend. And a seriously funny thing to do now is to climb or get down a stair, do you feel that amazing feeling in your legs, if not try squatting. Awww!”


Date: 15th and 16th December, 2012.
Route: Mangalore-Madikeri-Somvarpet-Bedahalli-Kumar Parvat-Subramanya-Mangalore.
Requirements:
Warm clothes, Torch, Tents/sleeping bags, lots of food and water.
We, the Gypsies at KP

The 14km long winding trail towards Bhattramane

At Bhattramane

The trail through thick forests
to Subramanya

The Majestic peaks of Kumara Parvata
as seen from Kukke Subramanya temple.
(Photographs courtesy Charan Walke)


KP 4 :A "windy" night!



“We battled fierce winds and saw the sky filled with dazzling lights of dawn!!”

I was sleeping near the door in a tent along with three other girls. The zip to close the door flap was broken and we had fixed it up with safety pins. At around midnight, I woke up due to the sounds of something beating down on the tents. For a few moments I thought it was raining. The safety pins were bent. The door flap was flogging me. There was some commotion outside. Sensing something wrong, I peeped out and a strong gust of freezing wind blew in my face.
It was then I realized that fierce winds were beating down on our tent. Another tent had blown away and its unfortunate occupants were scrambling to catch it.
My own tent was threatening to blow away any moment. I pulled the door flap, wrapped myself tight in my sleeping bag and slept half on the flap to keep it from waving wildly.

The intense chill and strong, roaring wind made sure that I did not sleep after that. All four of us inside the tent cuddled up as close as we could. But it didn’t help much. The roaring wind was only getting stronger with each passing hour. All of us were waiting desperately for the dawn… We thought that the winds would lessen their intensity with the sunrise… But dawn was five hours away.
The wind was so strong that a couple of guys coiled up in the sleeping bags outside had been displaced by 10 feet from their original sleeping place in a matter of hours…

We were out in the open at the mercy of nature. We had nowhere to go. All we could do was wait till the sun reached to protect us… The wind continued to pound on our tent… The tent was making every effort to stand its ground… The wind tore it in some places… But it was still standing, partly with the support of its occupants. I remembered the story of the “wind and the sun” I had heard in childhood… I was hopeful that the warmth of the sun would dampen the force of the wind.

The night passed with a growingly impatient wait for the dawn… As the first ray of light hit the skies, most of us were up jumping around in our sleeping bags, because it was too cold to get out of them. The wind, which was still blowing fiercely, made it difficult for us to stand. We could scarcely keep our eyes open.
Getting out of the sleeping bag seemed to be a herculean task. I was struggling to stop my teeth from chattering and forcing my frozen hands to move. I succeeded… and so did most of us…!
Our tent was still standing though the wind had bruised and torn it in many places. All four of us got out of it and pushed all our backpacks inside to support the tent in its battle against the wind. Outside our fellow trekkers were jumping around in their sleeping bags like cocoons. We were struggling to keep our hair, our clothes and ourselves in place…

From atop the Kumara Parvata, the sight of sunrise is as exhilarating and magical as the sunset. For us, who were fighting with the wind all night, it was a highly anticipated phenomenon. We wind which made every effort to push us down, didn’t deter us from reaching the cliff from where we could see the all powerful sun! Clouds were flying up along the cliff hitting us with droplets of water. We were at the highest peak, and we could see the SeshaParvatha and the siddha Parvata peeping out from a snowy blanket of clouds. The farther mountain peaks too peeped out from a peaceful blanket of clouds gathered around them. It was a sight to behold!
We were experiencing the beauty and fury of nature at the same time!
The sky was soon filled with dazzling golden and silver streaks as the sun rose on the horizon.
Sunset fills the sky with shimmering pastel shades; sunrise fills it with shining metallic shades! A beginning is truly beautiful and inspiring! More so, the beginning of a new day! We sat there for sometime in meditative silence.
The beautiful dawn

We basked in the glory of sunrise!
(Photograph courtesy Anindya Das)

Over the past 24 hours, we had experienced the power of the four elements of life- the earth, which had sustained us; the fire, which brought us close together with its warmth; the water, without which we would be parched by now and which we had struggled to get; and the air, which was unleashing its fury in the form of wind…!

The onset of dawn reduced the chill in the air… But it did nothing to kill the strong winds. We found a clearing surrounded by bushes on all sides where we lit up a fire to warm up and begin the preparation to leave the summit… As we got accustomed to the never dying winds, we gathered our belongings and started on our way back struggling to maintain our balance against the wind…
The wind was still howling when we left.
The dawn at Kumara Parvata
(Photograph courtesy Charan Walke)

Sunrise at Kumara Parvata
(Photograph courtesy Charan Walke)

KP 3: The evening!



“The sky turned pink, peach, copper and indigo as the sun left and twilight fell…!”

Watching the sunset from atop the Pushpagiri peak is spectacular, spell binding, magical and awe inspiring… I’m falling short of adjectives to describe it!
I had seen the sun disappear in the sea…
I had seen the sun disappear behind hills and mountains…
Here I saw the sun just disappear in what appeared to be a haze of clouds… But it was not at all cloudy that evening! I think I saw the farthest point of the earth visible to me from where I was standing…!

We were done with setting up our tents and filling water. We had reached the edge of the mountain just in time to watch the sun journeying westwards and into the horizon. We sat there at the cliff bathing in the glory of the moment. The valley looked threatening and deep enough to swallow anyone who would dare to go close to it.
The SeshaParvatha and the Siddha Parvatha appeared calm and majestic at a distance, against the sky filled with myriad hues. We spoke to the mountains and the mountains replied back to us… in our own voice, saying exactly what we had told them…!
The deep valleys and the beautiful view from the edge of the cliff were inspiring enough for anyone to dedicate poetry to the beauty of nature.
The sun was soon nowhere to be seen…
The sky was turning dimmer with each passing moment…
The moon peeped out above us in a perfect crescent…
The sky was soon covered in a navy blue blanket with shiny stars pinned to it…!

A nip in the air came along with the darkness and soon we were swaddled in whatever clothes we had (we did not have many!).It was time to light up the campfire. Firewood was piled up on top of one another; all the waste – dried leaves, papers, etc. went into it. Some big rocks to protect the fire from the winds surrounded the fireplace. A match strike, and the firewood crackled bringing comforting warmth to life.
We sat around the fire, chatting, each one updating everyone else with the recent happenings in his/her life!
We sat there staring at the clear night sky trying to identify the intricate patterns that were formed by the trillions of twinkling stars. I never knew that there were so many of them stuck up there!
We also sat there crying for some time because we had put tissues laden with Dettol(which were used to wipe hands that had got blackened by collecting firewood)in the fire, which made the fire smoke incessantly!
We had an early dinner around the fire…
All along blowing into the fire to keep it alive.

We hit the sacks early, a few of us in tents and few others outside in sleeping bags. Most of us had not slept properly since Friday night when we had departed from Mangalore. Saturday’s strenuous trek and the struggle for fire and water had also tired us out. We had two tents… one was occupied by all the girls… four of us including me, the other by two guys. The rest of the guys slept outside with a sleeping bag. The night was pitch dark. The sky was crystal clear - so clear that we could see stars shooting across the sky every few minutes.

That night I felt like I was in some kind of a fairy tale…curled up in my sleeping bag in the earth’s lap and the endless, beautiful, serene and mysterious night sky to give me company! The only sound around was that of insects, rustling leaves and crackling fire, which would soon die away. Everything around was so peaceful! It seemed as if nothing could have disturbed my deep sleep that night. But this was the calm before the storm…

Just before sunset from KP

When the sun ended his journey on our side of 
the planet

The shooting stars in the night sky

Campfire

Campfire

Cocoons in sleeping bag
(Photographs courtesy Charan Walke)


KP 2: At the Summit!



“We had to survive in the wild!”
 That was the first thought which came to my mind was when we finally managed to reach the Kumara Parvata after a tough climb.We were completely drained out. The Pushpagiri peak is completely barren save a few stretches with bushes. On the peak is a primitively built stone temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.
We scouted for a clearing sheltered by bushes to camp, to put up our tents, rest our aching limbs and wait for our fellow trekkers. They arrived one by one tired, relieved and exhilarated at the same time on having finally reached the summit.

By then all of us were so hungry that we could have eaten the raw vegetation around us… Thankfully, we had carried enough food with us.  We gorged on chapatis with chatnipudi, ghee, ketchup and HaldiramNamkeens!! It was one of the tastiest meals I ever had! After this simple but filling lunch, a few guys went around to search for and gather firewood for the night.

Gathering firewood is also an art… Not all wood is fit for burning. Some logs have too high moisture content to be fit for burning and some others burn out in no time. Thankfully, we had enough experienced people to tell us the what and how of this life in the wilderness!

After the firewood, it was time to refill our empty waterbottles. At the start of the ascend, each one of us had at least 2 liters of water… However, then, at the summit after lunch we had exactly 3 one litre bottles left for an army of 19 trekkers! An hour was still left for the sun to end its journey on our side of the planet. The source of potable water was a kilometre away from where we were camping. On went 7 of us armed with as many water bottles as we can carry. We had carried around 10-12 one litre bottles and 3 two litre bottles.

After a short trek we reached a rocky barren slope where water was trickling in a few centimeter wide streams. Judging by the speed of the water flow, we could have easily taken 5 days to fill 15 litres of water! A couple of trekkers were actually filling water from the same stream! We were perplexed. Water was a necessity. We needed it for the entire night and for the next day too. It was then that we came to know that the water formed a small pond a couple of feet across, at the foot of the slope on top of which we were then standing…

Thus began the real struggle to acquire the “elixir of life”. One of us went sliding down the steep rocky slope. We all threw our water bottles to him… And then we enjoyed a natural slide to the base of the slope! That time we were not thinking of coming back up… All we wanted was water…and getting it was no mean feat! We descended for another 5 minutes and finally came across a pond, which held potable water. It was then that I experienced the amazing feeling of spotting water amidst the forests and barren land, to quench our parched throats and soak our dirty aching limbs into the cool liquid!

We had slid down a rocky and very steep incline to fill water… Now we had to go back again! Coming down was a cakewalk. We did not have any water and it was a descent after all! But we had to go up again…!

So there we were 7 people lying flat over the slope in a chain that reached from the base of the slope to the top, as we passed the water bottles upwards! Talking of Teamwork! We actually enjoyed the game of passing water bottles over to each other along the difficult incline… The effort truly opened our eyes to the value of water… For a few seconds, I thought of those unfortunate souls in the world that had to travel miles to bring home a pot of water and shuddered!

Now we had enough water, food, firewood and shelter and we were prepared to get a taste of a night at the top of a mountain, under the open sky!
…To be continued.

At the top of the mountain

From the top of KP
Setting up the tent
(Photographs courtesy Anindya Das)


KP 1: To Kumara Parvath...!


That is how I felt when I was standing atop the Kumara Parvata. Said to be one of the toughest treks in Karnataka, Kumara Parvata seemed like an imposing challenge that we were eager to conquer. All we had to do to earn victory was to scale the mountain along a tough terrain of nearly 14 km.

For the ignorant folks, Kumara Parvata stands at 1712mts from the sea level. This mountain is a group of three peaks – the Kumara Parvata (also called Pushpagiri), the Siddha Parvata and theSeshaparvata. There are two ways to reach the summit: One via Somvarpet near Madikeri and the other via KukkeSubramanya.

We started from Mangalore towards Madikeri at midnight looking forward to a couple of days filled with adventure.We were 14 of us. Each one of us was excited and only too pleased to leave the urbanites behind. Considering the hot and humid climate of Mangalore, only a few of us had anticipated the acute chill that would greet us once we reach Madikeri… At 4 a.m. we were at Madikeri coming to terms with a season called winter. The worst part being most of us were ill equipped to handle it. We had to travel light and we never thought that we would require many warm clothes. We soon got to know that we were mistaken!

Another hour of bus journey took us to Somvarpet where we met our folks from Bangalore. After a quick breakfast and another hour of journey, we were in a village called Bedahalli. A 4-k.m walk took us to the ShanthiMalleshwara temple at the base of the Pushpagiri hill ranges. Another one kilometer walk to the forest checkpoint and we were ready to start our 7 k.m strenuous trek to the summit. It was 11a.m on a sunny winter day. The direction board read: “Pushpagiri peak: 6.75 kms” Kumara Parvata was awaiting our arrival…!

The trek trail to the summit from the Somvarpet side goes through thick forests. What surprised me was the presence of dustbins at regular intervals along the trek route-A very good initiative to ensure that the mountain slopes stay clean. As we climbed higher and higher, the mountains offered breathtaking views of the surroundings!
The next four hours, we were climbing up the mountain along a trail that was getting steeper with each step. The climb was tough. We were moving ahead slowly but surely pushed with encouraging words to each other, some packets of glucose, lots of water and juicy oranges!

At some places the earth stared into our face at a 70-degree incline… We went ahead, resilient, not to be perturbed by the difficult terrain. As we approached the summit, these steep inclines only became longer and more difficult. The slopes were barren…It was mid-noon now and the sun was blazing down fiercely. There was nowhere to take shelter. We had to drag ourselves to complete the last few kilometers… The direction board read: “Pushpagiri peak: 1.25 kms”.The summit seemed so near yet so far!

…to be continued
An incline staring at us.

The steep slope on the way to KP.

The Shanti Malleswaram temple 

Forest Checkpoint


Start of the trek to KP from Bedahalli
(Photographs courtesy Anindya Das)